Recommended Hike:
Goishi Coast & Kurosaki Senkyo Onsen
Goishi Coast & Kurosaki Senkyo Onsen
known for its crystal-clear waters, The Goishi Coast spans six kilometers, offering a stunning landscape of rocky beaches and cliffs. This section of the Sanriku Recovery National Park is renowned for its unique smooth black stones that line the coast, and is also home to a scenic hot spring, Kurosaki senkyo onsen.
Ofunato
Ofunato in Iwate is known for its fishing industry, as well as scenic attractions like Goishi Beach and Goyōzan Prefectural Natural Park. Fishing communities have the highest krill harvests in Japan and produce farm-raised scallops, oysters, and dried abalone.
If you have some time, make sure to stock up on supplies, drop by the Ofunato fish market (check its open first!), visit the Ofunato Hot Spring (大船渡温泉), and maybe even grab a burger at The Burger Hearts, in case you’re craving western food after several weeks of (delicious) Japanese meals. Then head to Hosoura station (細浦駅), either by BRT (local bus) or on foot.
Goishi Coast
Start your hike on a path that takes you through a dense forest, leading to the picturesque Goishi Coast. The trail is mostly easy, with some gentle climbs, the highest being under 100 meters.
You'll walk through areas thick with pine and cypress trees, and there are several vantage points for enjoying the scenery.
The coast is known for its crystal-clear waters, varying from blue to turquoise, which beautifully contrast with the grey rocks and green trees.
Anatoshi-iso Rock
This coastline is home to Anatoshi-iso Rock, a unique rock formation featuring three natural arches shaped by the ocean. You have the option to take a boat tour from a nearby harbour to see these arches from the water. Another interesting spot is a cave near Ohama Beach, linked to legends about a mythical creature.
Goishi Kaigan Information Center
You'll come across the Goishi Kaigan Information Center and a campground. It's a convenient place to take a break and store any heavy gear. Close by, there's Kaminari-iwa, a 30-meter tall rock named for the loud noise created by the waves crashing against it (kaminari means thunder). There's also an observation deck that offers expansive views of the coastline.
Goishi Kaigan Information Center
Goishisaki Lighthouse also stand on top of a hill near the Visitor Center, as well as several observation points.
Goishihama Beach
Just beyond is Goishihama Beach, with its unique black and white pebbles that resemble pieces from the game of go (a popular board game in Japan, Korea and China - perhaps the oldest board game in the world!). Boat tours from local fishermen are available for a different view of the coastline too.
From Goishihama Beach, you'll walk along a road through quaint villages, stretches of farmland, modest fishing harbors, and a long, sandy beach.
*If you’d like to cut the day short here, you could hop on a BRT bus at Otomo station (小友駅）and head towards Rikuzentakada or back to Ofunato.
The route offers a glimpse into everyday life in Japan's countryside, and you'll encounter several small, ancient shrines and temples, each deeply rooted in the history and culture of the local communities they serve. Midway, the path diverges from the main road, following a more natural trail along the coast. This section features a rugged coastline where the sea meets cliffs. The path here is filled with gentle rises and falls, similar to the Goishi Coast's terrain.
Kurosaki Senkyo
At the end of the Sanriku coast, you'll find the Kurosaki Senkyo Onsen (hot spring), offering stunning views of the Pacific Ocean. The scenery here changes with the seasons, weather, and time of year, providing a unique experience with each visit. The onsen has bathing areas and a lounge where you can enjoy these views.
A short walk from the onsen leads to both a shrine and the Kurosaki Senkyo Observatory Deck, ideal for viewing the gorge's distinctive rock formations. Local legends say that a mythical tengu, a creature part human, part crow, used to play with these rocks.
The onsen is a great spot to relax; it has a bath with mineral-rich water known for making skin smooth, and there's no strong sulfur smell like in some other onsens. It also has a restaurant serving fresh, seasonal seafood, known as a hidden gourmet spot. Many locals come here to rest and gather with their friends.
Kurosaki Senkyo Onsen is a perfect place to unwind after a long day’s walk, with its breathtaking views and tasty meals. Just make sure to check it’s open beforehand!
From there, you can then either stay at a local minshuku (guesthouse) or stay at the Ishihama Campsite (approx. 1 hour walk from there - make sure to book ahead for all accommodations to avoid any disappointment). Alternatively, you can order a cab from the onsen and head towards Rikuzentakada or the Ofunato area.
And if you're up for more exploration, head a few kilometers further to Cape Hirotazaki. It's an ideal spot for bird watching, especially for black-tailed gulls, and for enjoying the sunset.