A Walk Through Fukushima: Nature, History, and Humanity Along the Fukushima Coastal Trail
Fukushima Prefecture is often remembered for the devastation caused by the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake and the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear disaster.
Yet today, over a decade later, a new story is unfolding—one of resilience, renewal, and a deep connection to nature and community.
Recently, I joined a group of local and international hikers to walk the Fukushima Coastal Trail, or「ふくしま浜街道トレイル」in Japanese. Opened in 2023, the Fukushima Coastal Trail (FCT) links to the southern section of the Michinoku Coastal Trail, enabling adventurers to traverse both trails for an epic coastal journey of over 1,200 kilometers!
From Shinchi in northern Fukushima to the southern border town of Iwaki, the trail offers views of the Pacific Ocean and the famous Abukuma mountain ranges, taking you through memorial sites, farms, towns, and villages. This walk was a way to explore the ‘real’ Fukushima - one that is still transforming and has a lot to offer to visitors looking for a unique, off-the-beaten-path experience in Japan.
Day 1: From Namie Town to the Remains of Ukedo Elementary School
Our 2-day journey began in Namie Town, a symbol of Fukushima’s path to recovery. We met at Michi-no-eki Namie, a hydrogen-powered roadside station that serves as a hub for local products, including fresh vegetables, seafood, and sake. The station not only showcases the region's culinary delights but also symbolises the town's resilience, having been rebuilt after the disaster.
The first part of our walk took us to Ukedo Fishing Port, about 5 kilometers down the coast. As we looked out over the Pacific Ocean, we passed fisheries that, once devastated by the tsunami, had come back to life, now thriving with activity once more.
A short walk brought us to the Remains of Ukedo Elementary School, a particularly powerful place to visit. Situated just 300 meters from the Pacific Ocean, the school was hit by the tsunami. Remarkably, all 82 students and 14 staff members evacuated safely, earning it the nickname "The Miracle School". Now preserved as a public memorial, its first floor remains untouched, showing the classroom destruction left by the tsunami’s force, while messages from rescuers and residents are displayed on the upper floor.
Our next stop was the Great East Japan Earthquake and Nuclear Disaster Memorial Museum, which chronicles the 2011 earthquake and tsunami, alongside the subsequent nuclear disaster.
With around hundreds of thought-provoking panels and artifacts, including a tsunami-crushed fire engine and a replica of the damaged nuclear plant, the museum also hosts storytelling sessions at which survivors share personal experiences. Visiting the observation terrace with its views of the Fukushima Daiichi Nuclear Power Plant also helped us to place the museum’s exhibits into the context of what actually happened on the day.
One of the most moving moments for me was reading the personal stories of local residents. Their accounts of survival and loss brought the scale of the disaster into sharp focus, while the evidence of destruction made their struggles to rebuild feel all the more real. Yet, even in the face of such hardship, there was an undeniable sense of hope—a belief in brighter days ahead and the strength to keep moving forward.
Futaba Art District: Creativity in the Face of Adversity
In the afternoon, we explored the Futaba Art District, an impressive public art initiative that infuses color and vitality into the town. Colourful murals now adorn the walls of once-abandoned buildings, symbolizing renewal and revitalisation. The district boasts several stunning murals, each accompanied by QR codes you can scan to access detailed information about the artist and their work.
Our day concluded with dinner at Tokawa Restaurant, where we savored a traditional meal crafted from local ingredients. The warmth of the local people, their commitment to preserving their culture, and their exceptional hospitality left a profound impression on us.
We finished our first day with dinner and onsen (hot spring) at our accommodation, Hotto Okuma. Opened in 2021 as part of the town’s recovery efforts, the hotel is part of the Okuma Town Exchange Zone (大熊町交流ゾーン), a community and cultural hub featuring a multi-purpose hall, a marketplace ("Okumart"), a restaurant, laundromat, and more. Visitors can also buy local products, including sake made from post-disaster Okuma-grown rice (“Kibokyo" or 帰忘郷).
Day 2: Walking Through Futaba and Tomioka
Our second day began with a peaceful walk along quiet roads and fields of yellow flowers.
Our first stop was a visit to Yonomori Denim, a fashion startup run by a young entrepreneur who was just a junior high student at the time of the disaster. After years in Tokyo, he returned to Fukushima to launch a sustainable denim business, turning discarded jeans into bags and aprons. As a fellow entrepreneur with a social mission, I found this small business to be an inspiring example of how locals are creatively working to rebuild their communities.
We then stopped for a homely meal - delicious fried fish, soup, and rice - at Fuki-no-to. With a spectacular location overlooking the Pacific Ocean, we enjoyed home-cooked food lovingly prepared by the charming owner. Yukie-san and her husband moved to Tomioka a few years ago after falling in love with the area’s scenery and laid-back way of life. There is also a place to stay the night on the second floor (please call ahead to make a reservation if you plan to stay!).
As we continued along the trail, passing through Futaba and Tomioka, we were treated to beautiful views of the coastline in the sun, framed by the Abukuma Mountains and the vast Pacific Ocean.
We ended our journey at Café Yadorigi, where we had the chance to sit back, relax, and share our reflections on the trail with local members of the Fukushima Coastal Trail Association before heading back towards Tokyo. As we reflected and watched the setting sun together, it became clear that recovery is about more than just rebuilding—it’s about rekindling community, culture, and connection.
Reflections
Similar to its northern counterpart, the Michinoku Coastal Trail, the Fukushima Coastal Trail offers a rich mix of experiences. From savouring fresh seafood to hearing stories of resilience and rebuilding, the trail provides opportunities to meet local residents and enjoy the region's renowned omotenashi (hospitality). It also gives visitors a unique look at a part of Japan that has seen a profound transformation over the past decade.
While the FCT may have fewer rugged mountain paths and remote dirt roads compared to the Michinoku Coastal Trail, it has its own distinctive charm. The trail is well-suited for both day hikes and longer treks, making it accessible to a variety of hikers. For those seeking an even greater adventure, the FCT can be combined with the Michinoku Coastal Trail, making for an epic 1,200 kilometre coastal adventure.
When to Visit
The FCT is walkable throughout the year, but spring (mid-March to May) and autumn (September to October) are particularly good seasons. Spring brings mild temperatures (5°C–22°C) and the beauty of cherry blossoms, while autumn offers comfortable weather (10°C–25°C) and vibrant foliage. However, hikers should be mindful of the typhoon season in autumn. Summers in Fukushima can be hot and humid, and winters, while walkable, may bring snow and cold temperatures in certain areas.
Getting There
To get to Namie Station from Tokyo takes around 3 hours by train. For drivers, Namie is accessible via the Joban Expressway, and the town offers a 24-hour parking lot at Michi-no-Eki Namie for visitors. This roadside station, powered by hydrogen energy, makes for an excellent starting point with its fresh local produce and visitor facilities, including toilets. Whether arriving by train or car, Namie is a good option to begin your exploration of the trail and its surrounding areas.
For more information: See the Fukushima Coastal Trail website (Japanese only)
Photos: Tayasu Hitoshi (IG)