Recommended Section Hike:
Fudai to Tanohata

Fudai to Tanohata Section Hike (Iwate)

This section of the michinoku coastal trail - while undoubtedly challenging - is one of the most memorable parts of the entire trail. From Hand-dug tunnels to the famous cliffs of kitayamazaki, this is a section not to be missed.

Start Point: Fudai Station（普代）
End Point: Tanohata Station (田野畑）
Length: ~ 26.3 km
Time: Approximately 2 Days
Difficulty: Difficult
Elevation: 1,070m Ascent, 1,000m Descent
Elevation Profile

Nestled on the northern coast of Iwate Prefecture, Fudai village is renowned for its massive seawall, which played an important role in saving the lives of approximately 3,000 residents in the 2011 earthquake and tsunami.

Constructed in the 1980s, despite initial skepticism due to cost concerns, the wall proved to be an invaluable investment at the insistence of the then-mayor.

It’s important to point out that in many cases across other towns, seawalls made either no difference or actually made things worse, such as in the case of Taro town further south.

Stock up in one of Fudai’s stores and get ready for a couple of epics days of hiking.

Nedali Beach Nature Trail

From Fudai, head towards Nedali Nature Trail. This section of trail is short but pleasant; the rocky cliffs, with their intricate patterns, meet the beautiful Japanese red pine forest in a dramatic way.

Anmoura Viewpoint & Kurosaki Viewpoint

Then, onwards towards Kurosaki. From the Anmoura viewpoint on top of Kurosaki, located at 40-degree latitude, you can see the stunning Anmoura Falls (アンモ浦の滝). It cascades down the massive southern cliff, proudly holding the title of the tallest waterfall in Iwate Prefecture. It’s a small diversion from the trail, but it's worth a visit if your legs can handle it.

Kurosaki-so Lodge & Campsite

If you’re looking to stay the night in these parts, Kurosaki-so is a solid choice. Located on a cliff about 140 meters above the sea, Kurosaki-so is a unique type of lodging called a "kokumin shukusha" - a government-run holiday inn. These inns offer affordable accommodations in scenic areas, making them a popular choice for travelers.

One of its main features is a refreshing public bath that overlooks the beautiful blue waters of the Pacific Ocean. Additionally, guests can enjoy delicious cuisine made with fresh seafood from the renowned Sanriku Coast. The inn is conveniently located near various attractions, including the Rikuchu Kurosaki Lighthouse, recognised as one of Japan's top 50 lighthouses. There is a campsite next door and a small shop inside the facilities.

• Kurosaki-so website: https://kurosakisou.jp/

• Book in English via Rakuten Travel.

After staying the night at Kurosaki-so, head onwards to Kitayamazaki Viewpoint. This section features a lot of ups and downs (see elevation profile above) so get ready for some serious legwork - but it’s totally worth it.

Kitayamazaki Viewpoint

Kitayamazaki is famous for its stunning coastal cliffs that played an important part in establishing the Sanriku Fukko National Park. Known as the "Alps of the Sea", these cliffs are spectacular; Kitayamazaki on a fine day is undoubtedly one of Japan's top views. Make sure to stop by the Visitor Center for up-to-date information and take a break at one of the nearby restaurants.

Hand-dug Tunnels

After several more ups and downs, you’ll reach another highlight: the mysterious hand-dug tunnels that cut through the cliffs. Don't forget to bring a headlamp, it will likely be completely dark inside.

Tsunami Monument: Aketo Seawall

As you enter Tanohata town, you’ll see the Aketo Coast seawall, where there was once a lush green tide protection forest and a campground.

The tsunami washed away the trees and buildings, leaving behind a somber landscape with only two Japanese red pines remaining.

The broken seawall has been preserved as a means to pass on the lessons from the tsunami to future generations.

Hotel Ragaso (Tanohata)

If you’re looking for a place to stay in Tanohata, look no further than Hotel Ragaso. It has ocean-view rooms and excellent seafood menus, as well as a very pleasant bath.

• Hotel Ragaso Website: http://www.ragaso.jp/

• Book in English via Rakuten Travel

Alternatively, you can stay at the nearby Aketo Campsite. If you have the energy, you can set up camp at Aketo, and then walk to Hotel Ragaso for a bath for reasonable fee of a few hundred yen - but it’s best to call in advance and check bath opening times.

That marks the end of an exhausting - but hopefully extremely rewarding - couple of days on the Michinoku Coastal Trail.

Get some well-deserved kip, and then head to nearby Tanohata station or continue along the trail towards the majestic Unosu cliffs!