Recommended Hike:
Kinkasan Island
Kinkasan is home to over 500 free-roaming deer, regarded as messengers of the Gods in Shintoism
Kinkasan Island Hike
Kinkasan, considered one of Tohoku’s most sacred places, offers a unique blend of nature, spirituality, and culture. The island is home to a renowned shrine, ancient forests, and hundreds of free-roaming deer that are regarded as messengers of the gods.
Hiking map around Kinkasan Island, approximately 5.5 kilometre loop
Overview
Kinkasan Island (金華山), off the coast of Ishinomaki City, is a remarkable place. The island is renowned for Koganeyama Shrine, a Shinto shrine that attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors annually, seeking blessings for wealth and financial good fortune.
***First things first; planning a trip to Kinkasan can be VERY challenging due to the limited boat schedule***
There are very few boats, and very short times in between arriving in Kinkasan and leaving, which meant that my partner and I had to sprint the last bit of the 5.5km hike to make our boat back to Onagawa. Depending on which boats you manage to get, you will likely have less than less than 2 hours for the loop - which is quite challenging given the relatively steep ascent and descent. See the ‘getting there’ section below for more.
That being said - if you can make it work - it’s worth the hassle in my opinion! It was one of the most memorable sections of the MCT.
Giant trees line the path to the entrance of Koganeyama Shrine
Koganeyama Shrine (黄金山神社)
The heart of Kinkasan's spiritual allure is the Koganeyama Shrine, dating back to the 8th century. It's believed that making annual pilgrimages to the shrine for three consecutive years brings lifelong wealth and fortune. Adding to its uniqueness, the shrine has a ritual where visitors can wash their credit cards in a fountain beside the Ebisu and Daikokuten statues, symbolizing the acquisition of wealth and fortune.
The spritual heart of Kinkasan, Koganeyama Shrine
An ancient path leads towards the summit of Kinkasan
Wildlife
The island's rugged terrain, lush forests, and coastal views make Kinkasan a memorable hike. The island is home to over 500 free-roaming deer, regarded as messengers of the Gods in Shintoism. These deer, similar to those in Nara, have been treated with care and reverence for centuries by visitors. The shrine offers deer feed for sale, allowing for close interactions. However, visitors should be cautious as these deer are fearless around humans.
Beware: watch out for deer during the mating season for males (September-November) and the birth season for females (May-July), as they can be aggressive.
The trail winds through lush, ancient forests around the island
Hikers can find the trail entrance near Koganeyama shrine
Cultural Practices
With a history stretching back over 1200 years, Kinkasan is considered one of Tohoku’s ‘most sacred locations’ (alongside Yamagata’s Dewa mountains and Aomori’s Mt. Osore) and is a spiritual training ground for ‘Shugendo’, an indigenous Japanese religion celebrating nature and spirituality
The island's culture is highlighted by the antler-cutting ritual performed on the first Sunday of October, making the male deer safer. The antlers are crafted into charms and talismans, popular among both the faithful and tourists. There is also a small shrine at the summit of Kinkasan that offers beautiful views of the surrounding bay.
A small shrine awaits you at the top of Kinkasan island, after a steep ascent
Enjoy the view from the summit of Kinkasan
Getting There
As written above, it is quite challenging to plan a trip to Kinkasan. Please make sure to check the latest boat departure times before making the trip, consult with the Michinoku Trail Club or a local tourism office.
From Onagawa: Go to the Onagawa Sightseeing Peir (女川観光桟橋). From there, take the Ushio Planning boat (潮プラニング定期船). It takes around 35 minutes to Kinkasan. The ferry is available on Sundays, holidays and some Saturdays; see the website and timetable here. A round trip with Ushio Planning costs ¥3,500 adults and ¥1,760 children
From Ayukawa Port (鮎川港): It’s a 20-minute trip on the Dream Liner (ドリーム定期船) which operates on Sundays only, costing ¥2,500 for adults and ¥1,250 for children. For other days and times, you can rent a private boat with Kaijo Taxi Kuroshio motorboat service - reservations are required. A round-trip with Kaijo Taxi Kuroshio costs ¥3,000 for adults and ¥1,500 for children, but a minimum of 5 passengers is required. Details for both the Dream Liner & Kaijo Taxi Kuroshio are available here.
Accommodation
Alternatively, you can also stay overnight at the Koganeyama Shrine. This not only allows for a deeper exploration of the shrine and its rituals but also offers a peaceful retreat amidst the island's natural beauty. It is around 10,000 yen per person per night, including two meals and participation in a morning prayer ceremony, a Shinto ritual called Ichiban O-Gomakito. As always, please make sure to book in advance if this is your plan! Find out more about accommodation on the island here.
Jizo statues in Japan, also known as O-Jizo-sama, are revered as the guardian deity of children and travelers.
In summary, Kinkasan Island is a unique place for a hike, offering a serene blend of spiritual traditions, natural beauty, and wildlife. It's an ideal place for those seeking a peaceful escape and an opportunity to engage with Japanese cultural and religious practices. Just make sure to plan carefully - and don’t miss your return ferry!