Recommended Hike:
Kesennuma Oshima Island
Kesennuma Oshima Island Day Hike
a great option for a day OF EXPLORATION, KESENNUMA OSHIMA HAS beaches WITH clear waters, yuzu farms, quaint cafés, viewpoints, and extremely fresh seafood. The slow-paced island is well suited for A DAY HIKE and also has a hotel and campsite if you want to take your time and stay the night.
Kesennuma City
Either before or after your walk around Kesennuma Oshima island, make sure to spend some time in the main city area of Kesennuma in Miyagi Prefecture. There is a great selection of restaurants, cafes and even a sake brewery (Otokoyama Honten, 男山本店) where you can take a tour and enjoy some of the region’s finest sake. You can also stop by Kesennuma’s lively fish market or even go for an oyster farm tour.
From the Kesennuma city centre, there are two ways to get to Kesennuma Oshima island.
Bus: Board the bus bound for Oshima (大島) from Kesennuma Station (気仙沼駅), and get off at the bus stop called Tsurugaura / Tsurukame Ohashi (鶴ヶ浦・鶴亀大橋). It should take around 30 minutes. See this page for timetables and more (in Japanese, so you may have to use Google Translate)
Bicycle: Rent a bicycle at the Kesennuma Station Tourist Information Center or Kesennuma Tourist Service Center, and cycle around 10kms to the island.
Kesennuma Oshima Ohashi Bridge
Get off the bus just before the famous bridge. Opened in 2019, the Oshima Bridge connects Kesennuma to Oshima and stands as the sole land access to the island. This bridge is a symbol of resilience and unity for the residents of Kesennuma, marking a significant step in their recovery efforts.
Oshima, located southeast of Kesennuma port, was isolated after a tsunami disabled the car ferry service. Locals with boats helped transport supplies and people, but until the bridge's completion, there was no permanent link to Kesennuma.
The bridge, with its striking white arch, is a prominent feature visible from various points around the port and the surrounding areas. It has a safe area for pedestrians to cross, so enjoy the view and walk over.
Kesennuma Oshima Welcome Terminal
From the bridge, walk along quiet roads to the Kesennuma Oshima Welcome Terminal. There, you can enjoy a cup of coffee or some of the island’s famous Yuzu Ice Cream, as well as have a look at some of the island’s local produce. There is a place to rent bicycles here too.
Cape Tatsumaizaki
From the Welcome Terminal, head southwards towards Cape Tatsumaizaki. The sea foam that emerges from the waves crashing against the rocks is said to resemble dancing dragons, which is why the cape is called Tatsumaizaki (“dragon dance cape”). Around the southern end of the island, a pleasant hiking trail winds around the coast with gorgeous views. From there, head towards Kodanohama Beach.
Kodanohama Beach
Kodanohama Beach, nestled on Oshima's eastern shore, is renowned for its sweeping arc of sand set against lush, rolling hills. It was once voted the country's second most beautiful beach. Known for its crystal-clear waters, it's ideal for swimming.
The beach suffered significant damage from the 2011 tsunami, with much of its sand washed away. Thanks to the workd of volunteers, it was restored and became one of the first beaches on the Miyagi coast to reopen to the public in 2013. The nearby Omaemi-jima island helps shield the beach from strong ocean winds and currents, making it a ideal location for a peaceful beach day with mild waves, especially during the summer.
Mount Kameyama
Towards the end of the loop, you will hike up Mount Oshima’s tallest point, Mt. Kameyama. It is a relatively gentle, winding hike up. If you decide to stay the night in the nearby hotel or campsite, you can head back up to the summit at night for some wonderful views of the night sky and the harbour below. The path also leads to Oshima Shrine, a beautifully adorned Shinto precinct that serves as a guardian for the mountain. Once you’ve completed the loop around the island, either continue along the Michinoku Coastal Trail on foot, head back to Kesennuma on the bus (make sure to check the departure times ahead of time though - there are only a handful every day!), or stay the night on the island.
Accommodation: Kyukamura Kesennuma Oshima & Oshima Campsite
If you’re looking for a place to stay, Kyukamura is a solid option. It offers a variety of experiential packages that showcase the area's history, culture, and industry. You can take a scenic boat ride on the "Oshima-maru" to see the scallop farming areas, join morning walking tours, and explore Mt. Kameyama nearby too. Campers can stay at the nearby campsite, which offers everything you’d need for a comfortable night’s sleep. Make sure to book beforehand to avoid disappointment.
Dining
For fresh seafood, visit Gold Smile - a seafood barbecue restaurant offering fresh, seasonal catches from nearby waters. Enjoy specialties like uni and scallops, and you might even get to try the rare "phantom" Oshima oysters, usually reserved for upscale restaurants.
If you’re looking for a café, visit HATOBA near the Welcome Terminal, run by friendly local residents offering their famous “coffee jelly” as well as fresh coffee and other delights.
Alternatively, head further south to Nagame, a cafe and gallery inside a renovated house with antiques and vintage clothing, offering chickpea keema curry and Oshima Yuzu milk pudding, among other treats.